Last Updated: June 3, 2023
Sumela Monastery: Exploring Its Rich History and Significance
Nestled in the Pontic Mountains just south of Trabzon, the Sumela Monastery is a spectacle to behold. This historic Greek Orthodox monastery, dedicated to the Theotokos, dates back to the 4th century. Its precarious position on a sheer cliff around 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) above sea level provides a dramatic backdrop that continues to captivate the hearts of visitors from around the world.
We had heard about the monastery from friends and decided to take a look on our journey to north-eastern Turkey from Cappadocia. And after being so impressed with the Selime Cathedral, it was something we had to do. As we made our ascent on an ever-winding road we were struck by the monastery’s seemingly impossible placement. It almost seems to hang by the tip of its proverbial fingers from the cliff.
Sumela Monastery
Reminiscent of other extreme cliffside structures like Meteora in Greece or the Fanjingshan Buddhist monastery in China, Sumela Monastery is a masterpiece of ancient architecture we just had to explore further. This astonishing site is a testament to the engineering feats of the past, as well as the enduring allure and significance of the monastery as one of the oldest Christian structures in the world.
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Getting There
The Sumela Monastery is located around an hour south of the nearest city of Trabzon. It is in the northeast of Turkey on the Black Sea coast, not too far from the tea-making region around Rize.
The easiest way to get to the monastery is to drive and there is a lot of parking available below the monastery. If one parking lot gets full, as I assume it does in summer, there is an even bigger second level of parking below that – a few hundred meters down the road.
Sumela Monastery shuttle bus
You cannot drive directly to the monastery. You have to pay for parking and a shuttle bus up to the monastery car park, as it is quite small and crowded.
At the time of writing the shuttle was 10 TRY each (about 50 Euro cents) and the parking was around 50 TRY for our van (2.5 Euros).
Sumela Monastery parking
Accessibility
Due to the various staircases to get to the monastery and inside it, the complex is unfortunately not accessible to wheelchairs or strollers.
Ticket Prices & Opening Times
The monastery is open from 8 am to 7 pm every day of the year. I recommend you either come early or late to avoid the crowds. Especially on weekends or holidays.
Current prices for entry are 300 TRY (around 15 Euros). However, keep in mind that due to Turkey’s hefty inflation in 2022-23 prices are rising constantly. Take the Euro price as a gauge and it will likely stay around that throughout the year – give or take.
Architectural Features
View of Sumela Monastery entrance
We headed up to the Sumela Monastery by shuttle bus and were dropped off in the car park. It was not 100% clear how far it was to the monastery, but we knew it was a few hundred meters walk along the mountain. It is actually an easy stroll 300-meter stroll, with a few musicians playing for money along the way. I have no idea what instrument they were playing, but it seemed a little like a cat being squeezed to me! A cross between a sitar and a guitar?
Soon we were at the monastery complex and having paid our entrance fee started to long climb to the top where we entered the structure and could behold the amazing structures within!
The Main Church
Virgin Mary Church inside Sumela Monastery
At the heart of the Sumela Monastery, is the main church, the Church of the Virgin Mary, embedded into the rock. It is probably the most spectacular part of the monastery. Not only because it is the largest and most central feature, but because it is plastered with religious frescoes, both inside and out.
This impressive structure features a central dome and arched windows, allowing an influx of light into the dim interior. Upon entering, we notice the Byzantine architectural style, with elegant columns and arches supporting the structure. The main church is undeniably one of the most striking and well-preserved aspects of the monastery.
Frescoes and Artwork
One of the most striking features of the Sumela Monastery is the abundance of frescoes and artwork adorning the walls, both inside and out. As we explored the church, we stood in awe of the frescoes with depictions of biblical scenes and images of saints, carefully painted with rich, vibrant colors. The artwork reflects the monastery’s dedication to the Virgin Mary, with many frescoes depicting her life and importance in the Christian tradition. It’s astonishing to see how well-preserved and intricately detailed these frescoes are, considering the monastery’s age and history. After all, it dates back nearly 1600 years!
Damaged frescoes on the outside of the church
Of all the things we saw in the monastery, it is the frescoes that caught out attention, and everyone else who was there with us. People could not get enough photos or videos of them. They had been vandalised a lot over the years and we could see a lot of damage was still present, but recent restorations had fixed many of them, especially on the inside. And work was still ongoing, as you can see in some of the inside pictures. Scaffolding and protective covers are still there where work is ongoing.
Chambers and Corridors
The Sumela Monastery also includes a fascinating network of rooms, rock-cut chambers and corridors. These spaces serve various purposes, such as living quarters, storerooms, and refectories for the monks who once occupied the monastery. We got to go inside many of the rooms and see how practical and resourceful the monastic community was even many centuries ago. It was mind-blowing how they carved these chambers directly into the mountain to create a seamlessly integrated, self-sustaining complex.
View of the buildings of the monastery
Historical Background
One of the most fascinating things about the monastery to us, and one of the reasons we had come here was the sheer age of it.
Foundation and Early Years
The Sumela Monastery was founded in 386 A.D. by Greek Orthodox monks Barnabas and his nephew Sophronios, who were from Athens. They dedicated the monastery to the Virgin Mary after seeing a depiction of her in a cave on the site. The monastery, built on Melá Mountain within the Pontic Mountains in Trabzon Province, is one of the oldest monasteries in the Christian world.
As the monastery grew, it housed monks, scholars, and artists who contributed to the region’s religious, educational, and cultural development. During this time, the monastery’s architecture and features were expanded and enriched, creating the beautiful and unique structure we see today.
Significance in the Byzantine Era
During the Byzantine era, the Sumela Monastery flourished and became a prominent religious and artistic center. The monastery’s murals dating from this period reflect the intricate art and craftsmanship of this time. The monastery held great importance to the Byzantine people, as well as the Greeks living in the Pontic Mountains during that time.
And because of the monastery’s isolated location and its cliff-side construction, they had a natural defense against outside threats, making it a suitable sanctuary for Byzantine emperors during times of political unrest.
Period of Decline
Unfortunately, the Sumela Monastery experienced a decline in the late Byzantine period due to political upheaval and invasions. The monastery suffered during the Ottoman conquest of the region; however, it was later granted protection by Ottoman sultans. Despite this, the monastery’s significance gradually declined, and by the 20th century, under the new secular Turkish Republic, the Greek population of the area was forced to leave, causing the monastery to be abandoned.
Today, the Sumela Monastery is recognized as a historic site and serves as a tourist attraction, appreciated for its stunning architecture and rich history. Although it is no longer an active monastery, it remains a symbol of the cultural and religious heritage of the region.
Current Status and Restoration
Preservation Efforts
Further restoration – Sumela Monastery
In recent years, there has been extensive restoration work at the Sumela Monastery. The restoration efforts began in 2016, and after more than five years of work, they were completed in two phases at a cost of $6.53 million. The restoration aimed at preserving the historical and cultural heritage of the monastery while ensuring its stability and safety for visitors.
We could also see from a distance, as we camped way above the Sumela Monastery for a few days, that there were about 4 levels of rock protection above the complex. Rocks had been falling onto the monastery for years and it was a serious problem. Getting all those wire nets in place was quite a task, along with the restoration!
There have actually been numerous openings and reopenings as a result of the rock instability. And the last time it was reopened was on May 1st, 2022 after around 6 months of closure.
In the image above you can actually see that there are parts of the monastery that are yet to be completely renovated. There are quite a few rooms and sections that are incomplete, including the stunning balcony with views over the valley. We wished we had been able to see that as the views from there would have been mind-blowing. But alas, it seems it is some time away from being complete!
Tourism
The Sumela Monastery has always been an essential religious tourism center in Turkey, attracting both local and international tourists. After its reopening on July 1, 2021, the monastery is once again welcoming visitors from all around the world.
While we were there it was predominantly locals who were visiting on tours. We seemed to be the only foreigners to be seen. And although we got there early, there were already 20-30 people inside. So, I cannot imagine how busy it gets in summer.
Unique Viewpoint of The Monastery
Sumela Monastery from the high viewpoint
Although we got a good view and photo of the Sumela Monastery from the nearby Aya Varvara Kilisesi, there is an even better spot some hundreds of meters above.
The local government constructed a road and viewing platform many years ago on the opposite side of the hill. We actually camped there in our campervan for two nights because it is almost completely abandoned.
The road to this epic viewpoint starts next to the second/lower car park on the left as you are heading south towards the monastery. it starts with a reasonable cobbled road for about half a kilometer but soon degrades into dirt and gravel. It slowly winds many kilometers up the valley and curves back towards the monastery before finally arriving opposite it. Albeit some hundreds of meters above.
The viewpoint from Sumela Monastery
The road is not recommended for most vehicles. We have 4×4 on our van, and although you could get up here in a car, it is not easy to do. It is possible to walk and would take at least an hour from the car park. We did not walk, so I cannot give you exact times, but the path is quite easy. It is actually accessible from both ends, as it comes out onto the Sumela road again further up the valley.
